Mountain, Ghost, Pigs feet fried

The old lady walking in the pre dusk dense fog down the precipitous mountain trail with hat covering most of her face, slyly nodded as she and a group which was traveling upwards converged. Her hands were wrinkled and when she raised her head a glimpse of glowing white hair, vacant eyes, and pointed crooked teeth was caught. A few minutes later during a rest break, hike club members noticed young Shui xing was missing. He had been last in the single file line climbing up Taiwan's central island Mt. Babashan, and was never seen or heard from again.

early morning start

Foggy pond near hostel - dates on photos are wrong as they took place in 2010 and 2011

So goes the tale told to our hiking group by a member of the tribe that runs a hostel about half way up to the top of Babashan. What had been a boisterous evening with food, drink and song turned into one of complete silence except for the thump thump thump of a hostel workers palm on a table next to the storyteller's voice. Afterwards, leaving the common area to head back to the open bay platformed sleep area in the dark of a cold cold night it was scary enough trying to get the thump thump thump out of my ears let alone wondering what tomorrow would bring.

"Babashan! No No No Dawei No go there," warned cousin and Taiwan wedding best man from decades earlier Wong, Guo lin. "The Yaoguai (ghost) feeds on that mountain!"  A popular weekly TV show in Taiwan about ghosts in the countryside gave credence to his statement. Babashan has been declared by many as the most haunted mountain in all of Taiwan. The ghost there is not always a woman, or man or demon as it takes whatever form it chooses to be.

Wong, Guo lin

I went anyway. How it happened that was able to join a local Taiwanese hiking club for that 2011 trip began 13 years earlier. One summer day in 1998 while visiting one of the hiking stores located next to Taipei main station noticed flyers with dates, and costs for upcoming trips. So early on the next Sunday morning I signed in at east gate #3 to go on a day long bus trip to west-central Taiwan to hike up Lion's head. The ride to trail head was close to two hours long during which not one person spoke a word to me. That changed though by the first break when one did and as the day wore on several more as well. The reluctance at first was due to language barrier and the extremely rare occurrence of a foreigner joining their group, plus a certain caution of checking me out to make sure was sincere in wanting to hike and that my taitai was from Taiwan. By the end of the hike was included in group and several selfies. The hike itself was fun with long stretches along a ridge line and a lunch at an out of the way residence complete with ramen.

going up one of the popular Hehauanshan peaks

Due to infrequency of Taiwan visits and lack of free time once there did not get a chance to go hiking with the club again until the spring of 2010. On a Sunday day hike signed on to join an upcoming three night adventure to Nantou county's Mt. Hehuanshan area. The club director remembered me from 12 years earlier, and arranged for one of their members whom spoke English well to shepherd as well as provide ongoing translation. By the end everyone of the hikers no matter whether spoke English or not communicated with. The bus ride to get to our old Japanese hunting lodge in the central mountains took 6 hours, and with stops meant we weren't bunked down until 11 pm. Sleeping arrangements were in an open bay with two level platforms. 

In the morning breakfast of rice soup, with fried bread at nearby canteen was filling. Then we were off to the trailhead to start an assault up Mt Hehuanshan's north peak. It is a 2200 foot climb to reach its 11000+ foot plus summit. There we had hot noodles again before trekking towards the West Summit.

club members 

Hehuanshan north peak

heading towards Hehuanshan west peak

descending from north peak

The progress was slow and our group had to turn around near its base in order to get back in time for bus pick up. It was well after dark when had dinner at the canteen. Afterwards as got ready to crawl into my bag translator Julia told me to follow her and we went to a secluded room where the Club director, Mr.Wang and other officers were relaxing

They had driven up for the day and just arrived. The director pulled out a bottle of rice wine 57 proof from which we proceeded to have several celebratory toasts for me being the first person from Hawai`i to ever hike with them which resulted in a fairly good sized headache by morning breakfast. No matter though as that days hiking was up three easy peaks although over 11000 feet, each one was a walk up with the biggest challenge avoiding the crowds of people going up and down. 

one of the Hehauanshan summit

Quite the contrast from the day before when we seemed to be the only ones.  On the way back home we stopped at a huge banquet hall which had dozens of tables filled with diners. The parking lot was jammed with tourist buses. It was sad to say goodbye to all of the friends made when landed back in Taipei.

The next spring a check at the hiking store flyer showed a trek to Babashan which signed up for on the spot. Got in some day hikes with the club and two other groups. The most memorable was on a network of trails near Keelung. Taipei is encircled by mountains ranging from foothills to 5000 feet, and there are more than 100 peaks higher than 10,000 feet on the island. A lot of the terrain is similar to what have in Hawai`i. Many of the hikes that went on have fixed ropes near their summits, and some showcase vertical railroad ties to aid getting up steep climbs. Group stretching was the norm with jumping jacks warm up before each hike, and if is to be a short route then effort is made to connect with another to make for a full day. I had become something of a novelty by the time did the Keelung hike. Several took selfies, and at a rest stop two younger ladies came by to chat. After a bit one stroked my leg and another pulled on its hairs while saying  "you must be strong." Later a different woman kissed me on the cheek while we were walking and then got in front, stopped, closed her eyes with mouth puckered up. Instead of kissing her  I declared "am married got taitati." The group laughed but I should have at least kissed her on the cheek. 

Keelung area 

Yangmingshan National park just minutes from downtown Taipei

The trek to Babashan did not include translator or any of the other folks had hiked with earlier. Julia was there to see us off but circumstances prevented her participation. Others spoke English though so was no problem figuring things out. It was a long ride to our first nights lodging in a classroom area of a village church. In the morning our bus proceeded up a winding twisty road during which had to make several stops due to rock slide removals prior to reaching Babashan national park headquarters. Permits secured we headed out on a 20 kilometer trek to the aboriginal hostel. The first 15 K were rather easy scenic walking on a wide graveled pack dirt path. At that point crossed a fairly long suspension bridge to start the straight up 3 mile climb to hostel.

Suspension briidge at base of climb to hostel

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It was arduous walking which thankfully had occasional benches where could stop and rest. The only hikers saw other than our group were a couple on the way down towards the bridge. They were wearing the baseball caps with the number100 . That means they had climbed at least 100 of Taiwan's mountain peaks which reach 10000 feet. Most of those are found in the Central Range which runs from the north east side of the island down to its southern tip. Formed 5 million years ago by tectonic plates, Taiwan still today averages 800 to 1000 earthquakes yearly felt by humans, and another 18000 that are not.

The 100 peak hiker couple

Central range mountains

I was told by club members no need to bring sleeping bad or blanket as the hostel would have bedding. That was a mistake as the 'bedding " they passed out consisted of a space blanket to use on the hard wood platforms. If had not been so cold would have gone out to sleep on the ground. The next day headed out with hopes to reach the summit 20 K away but we only got as far as 10 K before heading back. The snow was very deep and when it got to the point that it covered the hiking poles the decision was made to retreat.

above 10000 feet snow got deeper

 Walk back to the hostel was gorgeous with sweeping views of striking snow covered tops, with scar covered rock slabs common in these parts due to ages of heavy rainfall. After dinner more ghost stories. The next morning determined to get out as fast as could and at the least to avoid being last in line in case we came upon a spirit. So reached the trail head first with lots of time to just blank out. 

Babashan national park waterfall

We stopped of for dinner on the way home in a town with Betel nut shops every 10 meters and ate at  another huge dining hall but this time we were the only ones there. Lots of standard dishes and for the first time ever had deep fried pigs feet. I have loved pigs feet ever since Betty cooked some up years ago but had never tasted feet deep fried, and they were fabulous.

Betel nut shop

All and all it was a great trip. Lots of waterfalls and fir trees. A side hike up Mt Yizhe too which was an easy walk up off of the main trail. Upon leaving the bus the leader said that I remain the club's best hiker but more n likely he was just being kind. The club is full of good hearted people

No ghosts sighted, no old woman or young man or wolf or bear that could shift on a dime. Nothing encountered with sharp teeth, and none of our group went missing. Sometimes I wonder though if Wong, Guo lin spoke truth, especially on those predawn mornings running by the nearby memorial park that the corners of my eyes pick up other worldly movement from shadowy figures with a "thump thump thump" ringing in the dark.

Memorial park running route.

Valley of the temples memorial park - Ahuimanu