Cows, Blow Horn, KFC

Soon after leaving Delhi airport a traffic jam was encountered caused by a cow in the middle of a busy intersection at 4 am. There were two more such encounters time we got to Deb and Alberts condo a half hour later where, yet another cow was standing in front of their gated parking lot. I am a cow birth Asian calendar, and I figure local people knew that as was treated really well all the time, even by disappointed jewelers, and a frustrated stick tuk-tuk attacker.

After 19 and a half hours in the air plus 3 more at Narita transfer arrive at Del airport middle of the night. It was most welcomed that as soon as exited the walkway spotted a man and young woman dressed in traditional dress holding up a sign that said David Eveland. They took our passports and then proceeded to get us through biometrics, immigration, and customs in record time plus stayed with us till we got our bags and met Albert and Deb. A younger me may have said what the heck you pay money for that for we not demented fully. But am old now and was dang sure happy that was able to get through all the steps without any lines or worries.

The next day Albert and I ran on the long paved run way that connects the War Memorial on one end and the India Gate on the other. Sort of like the DC National Mall capitol to the Lincoln walk/run route.  On each side of asphalt were big trees with grassy areas and plenty monkeys. A number of runners were out, I think I got lapped more than once. Good fun. The structures honor the 70,000 + Indian soldiers who perished during World War One and in the third Anglo Afghan war of 1919.

Son in law Albert is a highly skilled driver. I don't take the wheel anymore but even in the days when housemates called me Mario for Andretti as hauled them around Colorado still maybe had only 1 % of his ability. He got us through lots of traffic jams and to wherever we were headed on time. Most challenging was getting out of all those dead ends on very narrow streets on hilly terrain while hunting for the Jaipur Step Well. It is one of the most amazing manmade things I have ever seen. You don't see it until walk up a few steps and then what lies directly in front is a huge square with two or more entries on each side containing hundreds of steps down to the water. Built 11th or 12th century. If water level high, then maybe not too many steps to get to it but if low one would have a long walk down and harder one back up. Northern India has several step wells some  larger than this one even.

Our first road trip was to see the Taj Mahal at Agra. On the way there was where I noticed that most all the vehicles including semis had bumper decals or painted words that said blow horn. So I asked what kind of product is blow horn and was informed no no no is no product it means blow your horn as the driver is not going to pay attention as to where or when you may be approaching or passing or changing lanes. That turned out to be so true and explains why most everyone no matter whether in the city or country would constantly blast their horn.

On the way to Agra we stopped at a huge truck stop with a large food court. For $11 US enough food and juice/water was got for all of us at the KFC outlet. The fried chicken was the best retail fried have ever had. It was just right. I could understand then why people no bother to eat the cows. Alas though we went to a different KFC that week which just did not measure up. So the reason so many cows is not due to fried chicken.

The Taj is amazing. Marble structure has hundreds of sculpted images adorning its numerous sections. You see two coffins inside but the Maharaja and his wife do not reside in those. They are several feet below in caskets that you do not see. The grounds are beautiful as well. He rivaled Yul Brynner as to number of wives. So I wondered if the other 56 were jealous that he did not build after life palaces for them too.

Our $68 a night Amer hotel which included buffet breakfast was awesome too with high ceilings, gardens and infinity pools. On the Road trip to Jaipur 200 miles, also south of Delhi we stayed in another opulent hotel for  only $100 including an even better breakfast. Due to start of the low tourist season the place felt rather empty and the staff not busy as evidenced by five of them admiring the jeep for several minutes. If you look closely at the  photos from the Taj Mahal you may notice that the stash was twirled on each end. Did that thanks to wax and desire to look like the doorman at our hotels.

The six nights when not away from town were spent at their apartment for which gov paid the $4000 monthly rent.  It was quite nice with three bedrooms and three full baths plus a half. 

City Palace, ancient mosques, the Red Fort, The Elephant Fort, the Fort with no name, Qutb tower were all amazing. Most moving to me was the Ghandi museum house from which we followed the actual steps he took to the garden where the assassination took place. 

Here is a photo of Palace grounds court yard.

An outstanding experience was spending an hour and a half in a tuk-tuk going up and back Delhi's spice street. What would have normally been a 10-minute ride took longer due to sewage line repair. Such resulted in several traffic jams. At one point a cyclist got his bike hit by our tuk-tuk. He then pulled out a very large stick and whacked the back of where the four of us sat prior to advancing towards the driver. Much shouting and threatening ensued until a white-haired guru looking gentleman cautioned both our driver and the dented bike owner to knock it off, least we go home and complain about Delhi traffic.

This is the tuk tuk we rode in for the spice street excursion. It is followed by a shot from inside from which can see a cow out on the street. The photo after it shows spice street.

We did see homes with tin roofs and no space between units somewhat similar as described about a Mumbai undercity by Katherine Bo in her account of families striving and surviving in her book The beautiful forevers. The struggle by many to gain enough funds to eat was in plain view no matter where we went. Every time the car was stopped young children some as young as 4 would made their way to the car windows hoping for a roll down and some rupees. Most times they appeared to be selling something. Women of a certain gender dressed to the nines with flattering make up would also approach and stand waiting for a show of appreciation as to their looks. 1.5 billion people in a land mass a good deal less then the contagious 48, and a government swamped with meeting human services and educational needs makes it difficult for many especially former untouchables to rise up. Some do though.

We were there only eight full days in a country one could spend a lifetime and still not fully grasp its essence. Am so glad we went. We were supposed to go a year earlier but health setback forced cancellation. Got the airfare back though, three words was all it took to get the refund. Deb and Albert were great hosts and a joy to spend time with. 

It was a fantastic experience to live a few days in the most populous place on earth amidst endless humanity. Somehow society grinds on despite all the struggling and chaos. I recommend if you have the opportunity to spend some time there yourself.  And oh yeah Indian food is awesome.

Here are some more photos. The first four are of the Ghandi museum and ground. First is of Albert and I next to a sculpture of the fearless one with outstretched hands. The second of the actual garden spot where he was fatally wounded. The third shows the steps he took on the way to his assassination and the fourth is of the room he stayed in the last few months of his life.

Here is a photo that  shows the  masterful design of an ancient mosque which highlights its line of view.  

Next are several photos from the Jaipur region. First one is of the infamous Hawa Mahal aka Wind Palace's pinkish exterior highlighting the multilevel narrowing symmetrical ascending architecture and hundreds of windows. It was built as an extension to the City Palace and Royal ladies lived behind each window which allowed them to look out on activities in the street below without being seen.

Following it is a shot of us on a palace grounds, followed by one of a lone elephant ascending a fort's grounds. In high season there are often dozens of elephants making te climb. Then have a photo of an entry way to the palace. The final two from Jaipur are from a block print textile factory/store and of two famous dancers at the Taj hotel.

This picture is of the Qutb Minar tower in Delhi park and its nearby mosque. The tower was built in the 12th century from red and buff sandstone with marble inlay. It is the tower to the ancient Quwwat- ul -Islam mosque. An UNESCO heritage site, it is the tallest masonry tower in India.